Thus I've begun the task of replacing the original Wago connectors with the new 221 lever connectors.a huge difference when it comes to operating ease. The issue I had with the original Wago push-in connector, is that to remove the wire ends from the Wago by twisting the wire, sometimes the wire is held so tight that the stranded wire breaks before the wire connection is released. Here's a shot of the Wago connector attached to the original bollard after 13 seasons of outdoor service. They've given me absolutely no problems and the lights are operated from dusk-to-dawn 365 days a year in rain and snow.sometimes to the depth of 3 feet.Īround 2 years ago I decided to replace the inexpensive ($10) bollards with some RAB items which are more substantial. To ensure the success of this, at the time, I installed Wago push-in connectors which were cutting-edge 15 years ago. An oxidized connection is a clear path to electrical resistance, a potential fire hazard and ultimately an electrical failure. All use LED lights and have been absolutely bullet proof over the years.įor me, the success in this lighting was guaranteed by tinning every electrical connection so that wire oxidation wouldn't eventually compromise the entire system and render it useless. There are 30 bollard lamps and 20+ downward projecting fence lights plus several spot lights and some individual small spotlights highlighting small sculptures. I installed low voltage outdoor landscape lighting throughout the yard 15+ years ago. I'm not saying they will fall apart on their own (or will they), but there must be a higher resistance at that point created by the loose connection and limited contact area between the conductor and the push-in connector than when you have a more robust connection such as the tried and true twist-on nut. Any time you have a conductor loose enough that you can easily spin it around with such little effort how can you have a solid and reliable electrical connection. To me they don't give any confidence in the connection. And that was at triple the rated amperage of the nut. The plastic of the lever nut smoked and melted (same as the twist-on wire nut) but the latching mechanism never let go. In short the end result was the same as for a twist-on wire nut. In the tests I've watched on YT the wire insulation smoked and burnt away before the Wago nut. No straightening of twisted wires as was mentioned and you're not trying to stuff 3 or 4 #12s twisted together into the back of the box. And when you want to change the fixture a couple years from now it's a simple task. Most of the new fixtures have lighter gauge wire and sometimes trying to join that with a traditional twist-on wire nut to a piece of #12 or #14 solid wire can be difficult, especially in tight quarters or with multiple conductors. I like the Wago lever nuts for light fixtures. Probably the most stringent in the world. I have no connection with Wago, but I have use them for years in a professional capacity and know something about the testing and approval regime they have all gone through. If the correct wire stripper is used then there is no increased danger of exposed wires if the transparent plastic is used to view the conductor has reached the end of the receptor, (as per the instructions).Īs with other systems, these connectors are for use either within a cabinet, or in conjunction with the Wago junction boxes that include cable strain relief and are self extinguishing if flamed. This indeed may make it preferable, but there is not a difference in reliability if the wires are stripped and inserted properly. The internal wire clamping mechanism is almost identical, the main difference being the lack of insertion force in the lever types. Have you tried to pull wires out of each? It is just as easy to pull wires out of a lever type.
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